Photoepilation

The problem of undesirable hair growth and its removal exists since ancient times. For long time people used only different depilation techniques for hair removal – such as shaving, waxing, chemical and bio-depilation. However these methods had a short-term effect. First depilation technique involving hair follicle removal was electrology. Unfortunately this technique is invasive and leaves crusts, point irritation; sometimes small cicatrices form.

The up-to-date technologies allow removing hair follicles using light without hurting the skin, these are laser and photoepilation methods. The mechanism of action is based on the principle of the selective photo-thermolysis, based on selective absorption of the light by the melanin located in a hair follicle. The light waves absorbed by melanin of the hair affects the heating of the hair shaft and as a result the melanin producing cells die. However, the cells are destroyed only during the phase of the active growth, during the telogen phase (resting phase) the hair does not grow and accordingly the light waves depilation is not efficient. All the above-mentioned leads to recommendations for necessary depilation course (from 4 up to 8 sessions).

 

What is the difference between laser and photoepilation? What is better? What is more efficient?

Nowadays there is no one depilation type which allows to get rid of the unwanted hair forever. The combined depilation method – photoepilation and electrolysis, laser epilation and electrolysis – will help to satisfy the client’s needs in a most complete way. Nevertheless, even in this situation one should not forget about the fact that the hair growth depends on the presence of the sex hormone testosterone in masculine and feminine body, so all the problems with endocrine system may be a reason for taking longer courses, sometimes requiring supporting therapy.

The fundamental difference of photoepilation from the laser epilation consists in the fact that the lasers operate only with waves of a certain length, and photo-epilators generate a wide range of light waves (550-1200 nanometers) covering the action range of ruby, alexandrite and neodymium lasers. In this case the light stream reaches not only hair follicles but penetrates into the subcutaneous fat, it does not soak into the blood and the lymph, and as a result the deep tissues are not injured.

Secondly, by varying the visible spectrum of the intense impulse light you can enlarge the list of indications for epilation: dark hair is removed effectively as well as the blond one, and hair of different texture and thickness.
Thirdly, unlike laser epilation, photoepilation can be practiced both on dark and tanned skin, but the tanning must not be fresh (at least 2 weeks after the tanning procedure should past).

The fourth point is that a wider light spot comparing to the one of a laser beam helps to treat faster the skin of the arms and legs, groin and axilllae.

However there are restrictions for photoepilation procedure, such as grey and too light blond hair, both on dark and light skin. In this case the electrolysis is more preferable.

What are the indications for photoepilation?

-    hypertrichosis – overgrowth of hair located in any area of both masculine and feminine body
-    hirsutism – excessive growth of androgenic hair in women (male pattern of body hair)
-    metals allergy  - electrolysis is not possible
-    disposition to ingrown hairs, folliculitis, pyodermia.

Contraindications to photoepilation

Absolute:

-    acute and chronic inflammatory or allergic skin diseases
-    photosensibilization (taking certain medicines increasing photosensitivity during 2-4 weeks before the session)
-    keloid scars
-    acute infections
-    malignant neoplasms
-    mental disorder
-    glaucoma, progressive high myopia
-    diabetes
-    hypertension and ischemic heart disease

Relative:

-    age under 16 years
-    pregnancy
-    place of application located in the eyebrows area
-    place of application located in the zones of tattoos

The photoepilation must be performed on the clean skin in order to reduce sensibility and discomfort, hair is shaved up to 1 mm above the surface of the skin in order to concentrate the pulses of light strictly inside the follicle. A cooled optical coupling gel is applied onto the skin and the pulses of light begin. During the procedure you might have sensations of stinging, burning or a slight pain. After the procedure the treated area is cooled until the feeling of burning goes away. The skin may become reddened which will resolve within the next 2 hours. In rare cases a temporal pigmentation disorder may appear (the skin may become darker or lighter, even more rarely the procedure can cause first-degree and second-degree burns. Within 7 days the hair disapear. The interval between the sessions depends on the area of application, as different areas of the body have different hair growth cycles. On average the interval is 6-8 weeks, the exception is the upper lip area and the chin; these can be treated for another time after 3-5 weeks. The course takes 4-8 sessions.

The number of the sessions may vary according to the skin tone, the colour of the hair, the thickness and the texture of the hair. The type of the epilation or the depilation taken by the patient previously plays a rather important role. The best method of depilation both previous to and after the photoepilation is shaving. Coarse, thick hair in the phase of the active growth is removed more efficiently during photoepilation and the effect remains visible for more than 5-8 years; on the contrary, soft , vellus hair start to grow again faster. In some cases one intense course of photoepilation is not enough and the additional therapy of 1-2 sessions a year is possible.

One session of the photoepilation before the vacations is a rather wise procedure by the way – hair does not start growing for 3 weeks! So you can leave the tools and products for depilation at home.

After the photoepilation you should keep from the sun exposure and tanning in solarium within 1-2 weeks and use additionally a cream with UVF 20 and higher.

In conclusion it should be mentioned that today photoepilation is one of the best aesthetic techniques of unwanted hair removal and its growth reduction. The epilation effect lasts up to 5-8 years, especially in the areas of axillae, groin and legs.